It feels like the apex of an immense white roof – the point at which three ridges to the top of the world finally meet and you can’t go any higher. Unlike some summits, where mountaineers have to take it…
Once the island of Kalymnos in Greece’s Dodecanese cursed the hand nature had dealt it. Huge rock escarpments line its western coast, overlooking the Aegean. The slopes below, covered in wild oregano, thyme and mint, were good only for goats…